Not every memorable meal is planned. After abandoning our attempt to summit Mount Cheonseong, hunger led us to Chon Rice, a quiet neighbourhood eatery tucked away at the foot of the mountain. It turned out to be one of the most unexpectedly simple yet satisfying meals of our Korean road trip.
The menu was simple, and so was our order: a comforting bowl of tofu doenjang soup. The soup arrived piping hot, bubbling furiously. Steam rose off the bowl in warm waves, carrying the broth’s heartiness with it – practically giving us a facial before the first bite.
What truly impressed us, however, was the generous self-service spread of over ten banchan. While most restaurants have a few standout side dishes, here every single one deserved praise.
The boiled cabbage was unforgettable. It was naturally sweet with an astonishing crunch (see video) that made us pause after the first bite. There were no sauces or seasonings to hide behind, just the pure flavour of fresh cabbage. It reminded us how extraordinary an ordinary vegetable can be when it is grown and prepared well.
The stir-fried zucchini was equally memorable. Lightly seasoned with sesame, it retained a deep vegetable sweetness and a robust flavour that we rarely associate with such a neutral-flavoured humble ingredient.
When we spoke to the owner, we learnt that many of the vegetables came from the surrounding area. Growing at the foot of Mount Cheonseong, nourished by clean mountain air and fresh water, perhaps that is why the vegetables tasted so vibrant. They needed only the simplest cooking for their qualities to shine.
Chon Rice may be far from the usual tourist trail, but if your journey ever takes you through this part of Korea, it is well worth stopping by.