When travelling through Seoul, it is easy to be distracted by modern cafés and trendy restaurants. But if you enjoy traditional Korean cuisine and an endless selection of banchan, Norang Jeogori Hanjeongsik in Gangnam is a worthwhile stop.
We visited during summer and ordered the two-person seasonal set featuring Bori-Gulbi (barley-aged dried brown croaker). Alongside the fish came an impressive spread of 14 different banchan, including acorn jelly, japchae, jeon, salted pollock roe, minced beef, soup and several seasonal side dishes. Every dish was prepared with balance rather than extravagance, making it a satisfying meal that showcased the variety of Korean home-style cooking.
Bori-Gulbi is one of Korea’s lesser-known heritage foods. Originating from Beopseongpo in Jeollanam-do, the fish is traditionally aged inside earthenware jars filled with raw barley. The barley absorbs excess moisture, reduces unwanted fishy aromas and gently tenderises the flesh while adding a subtle nutty character. Because of the lengthy ageing process and the scarcity of quality croaker, it eventually became a delicacy served at royal banquets.
The traditional way to enjoy it is equally fascinating. Small flakes of the salty dried fish are placed over hot rice that has first been dipped into chilled green tea. The green tea softens the rice while its gentle bitterness balances the richness and saltiness of the fish. It creates an unexpectedly refreshing mouthful that feels perfectly suited to Korea’s hot summers.
We were told that Bori-Gulbi is an acquired taste, even among Koreans, but Norang Jeogori is known for preparing a respectable version. We found the combination surprisingly enjoyable. The savoury fish, fragrant green tea and warm rice came together in a way that was both comforting and uniquely Korean.
As The Humble Belly, we are always searching for heritage foods that tell a story. Bori-Gulbi may not be the most famous Korean dish, but it offers a delicious glimpse into centuries of culinary tradition and is well worth experiencing if you are looking beyond the usual tourist favourites.