Some of the best meals are never part of the itinerary.
While driving through Guryongpo, a historic fishing town in Pohang established in 1928, we made an impulsive U-turn after reading a little about its fishing heritage. Lined with seafood restaurants overlooking the port, it felt like the sort of place where fishermen, families and travellers gathered simply to enjoy what had just arrived from the sea.
Guryongpo is known for its seasonal catch of snow crabs and squid. Although many shops displayed beautiful snow crabs, we soon learnt they were imported rather than local. Summer, however, is the season for hanchi (spear squid), prized for its naturally sweet, tender flesh. That quickly became our mission.
Taejong Mulhoe immediately caught our attention. Live squid darted through tanks outside while a queue of locals patiently waited under the sweltering Korean summer sun. Inside was a cosy dining room with barely twenty seats, the sort of small family-run eatery where everyone seemed to know exactly what they had come for.
An hour later, our bowls finally arrived.
Mulhoe (물회) is a beloved summer seafood dish from Korea’s coastal regions, where the freshest catch is paired with chilled broth, crisp vegetables, noodles and just enough seasoning to let the natural flavours of the seafood shine.
The Mulhoe at Taejong was as beautiful as it was inviting. Delicate slices of pearly white flounder and translucent spear squid were arranged over shredded cucumber, radish and seaweed, with chilled wheat noodles hidden beneath a bed of crushed ice. A small amount of light, tangy broth pooled quietly at the bottom, while a generous spoonful of gochujang waited to be mixed in.
The owner showed us the Pohang way of eating mulhoe. Before touching the gochujang, we were encouraged to taste the seafood on its own. The first spoonful was wonderfully refreshing. The crushed ice and little broth carried a gentle sweetness with a subtle tang that instantly washed away the heat of standing outside, allowing the natural flavour of the seafood to shine. It was as if our palate had been reset, ready for what was to come.
Then came the moment that transformed the bowl.
With a thorough mix, the crimson gochujang coated every strand of noodle, every slice of seafood and every shred of vegetable. The first mouthful immediately awakened the palate. The gentle heat and savouriness coaxed the mouth to water, carrying the flavours into every corner with remarkable clarity.
Suddenly, the sweetness of the spear squid became even more pronounced. The delicate flounder tasted cleaner and brighter. The crisp cucumber and radish offered refreshing bursts of crunch, while the seaweed added a subtle ocean fragrance that lingered softly in the background.
The noodles had a lively springiness that encouraged generous mouthfuls, while the squid yielded almost effortlessly before finishing with its signature gentle chew. Thinly sliced flounder blended seamlessly with the noodles, contributing a clean sweetness and pleasant bite without ever overpowering the other ingredients. Toasted sesame seeds released little bursts of nutty aroma that quietly tied everything together.
What surprised us most was how every chew seemed to unlock another layer of flavour. As the gochujang mingled with the seafood’s natural sweetness and the fragrance of sesame, our mouths continued to water, making every successive bite even more irresistible than the last. Instead of dominating the bowl, the gochujang acted like a conductor, bringing every ingredient together into perfect balance. Before long, we found ourselves caught in an almost unconscious rhythm – lift another bundle of noodles, seafood and vegetables, savour the cool rush of flavours, swallow… then immediately reach back for another bite. It brought an unexpected sense of relief from the summer heat, followed by the quiet satisfaction that only truly fresh food can deliver. The kind of meal that makes your mind do a little happy dance without you even realising it.
Before we finished, the owner introduced us to the final Pohang tradition: adding steamed rice to the remaining broth so that not a drop of flavour went to waste.
It was a meal that perfectly reflected Guryongpo itself – honest, uncomplicated and deeply satisfying. In a world where so many dishes rely on rich sauces and heavy seasoning, this bowl reminded us that truly fresh seafood needs very little. Just exceptional ingredients, thoughtful preparation and the confidence to let nature’s flavours speak for themselves.
About Guryongpo
A brief stopover to understand the history of this town, do visit the Guryongpo Japanese House Street. During the establishment of the port which was mainly run by the Japanese, this area served as a residential and commercial center for the Japanese including houses, restaurants, hospital, stores, and inns. 28 buildings located along this 457-meter long alleyway started repairs in 2011.