When people think of Korean fried chicken today, they often picture glossy sauces, cheese powders and endless flavour combinations. But before all of that, there was Yangdong Tongdark.
Established in 1969 in Gwangju, it is widely recognised as Korea’s first fried chicken restaurant. The rise of fried chicken came during the post-war years, influenced by American-style fried chicken introduced through the U.S. military presence, while cooking oil became increasingly accessible in Korean households and restaurants. What emerged was the classic whole fried chicken – simple, freshly fried and meant to be shared.
More than 50 years later, Yangdong Tongdak still follows that philosophy.
The chicken is only fried after an order is placed, ensuring every serving reaches the table blisteringly hot. With a constant flow of dine-in guests and takeaway orders, fresh batches are continuously coming out of the fryer, keeping waiting times surprisingly short despite each chicken being cooked to order.
Our whole chicken arrived in less than five minutes. It was the sort of hot that threatens to burn your fingertips if you’re too impatient. Accompanied only by pickled radish, sweet chilli sauce and salt, it is an uncomplicated meal that relies entirely on getting the fundamentals right.
Was it the best fried chicken we had in Korea? No. But it was certainly one of the better ones. The batter was crisp without being heavy, the meat remained juicy, and the flavours were honest and familiar. There were no gimmicks – just a well-executed version of the fried chicken that helped shape a nation’s love affair with the dish.
The restaurant itself is equally unpretentious. Wooden tables filled with families and groups of friends, bottles of beer clinking together, conversations rising above the television showing the evening baseball game – it felt like a neighbourhood institution that had changed little over the decades.
After dinner, take a short evening stroll to nearby Heegyeongnu Pavilion, or continue exploring Yangdong Market, where street food vendors offer plenty more local snacks if you’re still hungry. We had also hoped to visit the famous Mimiwon, but reservations were fully booked weeks in advance. Some places simply have to remain on the bucket list for another trip.
Sometimes the most memorable meals aren’t the very best you’ve ever eaten. They’re the ones that remind you where a nation’s food story began.