Established in 1991, Jeongja has quietly built its reputation around a simple philosophy: start with exceptional ingredients and do as little as possible to get in their way. Chef-owner Mr Kim Byeong-mo sources wild-caught seafood directly from nearby Jeongja Port. There are no shortcuts here – no canned ingredients, no instant products, and seasonings are deliberately kept light and low in sodium so the seafood remains the focus.
At the entrance, tanks of live Korean flounder and rockfish immediately tempt diners. We were initially drawn towards the flounder sashimi, curious to compare it with French turbot and the flounder we have enjoyed in Malaysia. But an opportunity to try wild Korean rockfish for the very first time was impossible to resist.
The Rockfish Maeuntang (Spicy Red Stew) arrived bubbling gently at the table. Beneath the rough, almost sandpaper-like skin was beautiful white flesh that remained remarkably intact despite simmering in the broth. Protected by its skin, the meat stayed tender, moist and pleasantly firm instead of breaking apart into flakes. It carried a clean sweetness and delicate savouriness without the strong fishiness many people associate with seafood.
Using the fish’s head and bones gave the broth wonderful depth alongside radish, garlic and peppers. The soup was bright, fresh and only mildly spicy. It was spicy enough to warm the palate but never so overpowering that it masked the flavour of the fish. A piece of rockfish, a spoonful of broth, followed by rice – it quickly became a rhythm that was difficult to stop.
Then came the biggest surprise of the meal: a single piece of rockfish liver.
Tender enough to fall apart at the slightest touch, it was rich, creamy and almost custard-like, carrying the scent of the sea. Unlike the flesh, this was the only part that proudly displayed a stronger marine flavour, not unpleasant but wonderfully distinctive. It reminded us of foie gras, except instead of liver richness, it carried the essence of the ocean. We couldn’t help but nickname it The Korean fisherman’s foie gras. There was only one piece, which somehow made it even more memorable. Some pleasures are best appreciated because they are fleeting.
Soup is one of humanity’s oldest comforts, found in almost every culture and enjoyed in every season. Yet the best soups often demonstrate remarkable restraint. At Jeongja, the doenjang and gochujang never competed for attention. Instead, they quietly supported the natural sweetness of the wild rockfish, while fresh minari added a gentle herbal lift and crisp texture.
When ingredients are this fresh, confidence comes not from adding more, but from knowing when to stop. At Jeongja, that quiet confidence is tasted in every spoonful.
Would we return? Absolutely. The only dilemma now is whether to finally order the flounder sashimi – or come back for another chance to meet The Korean fisherman’s foie gras.